Sanding small moldings is always a challenge. Smoothing the wood without disturbing the detail can be tough. One method I have used in the past is an old idea that still works, the deck of cards.

A standard deck of playing cards can conform to the profile, and hold the profile as you sand. Drop the deck edge on to the molding, and the individual cards will rest on the molding. Clamp or hold them tightly and wrap a piece of sandpaper around the deck to sand the part.

Obviously, this works best when the backer on the sandpaper is thin and flexible. You can also improve the fit by rolling and unrolling the paper to loosen the backer making it more flexible.

What tricks do you use for profile sanding? Share them with others by commenting here or on our Facebook Page.

As with most things, you get what you pay for with sandpaper. Not all grit sizes are created equal. The grit number indicates the size of the particles used to abrade the surface. But the more consistant the size, the fewer “high points” there will be.

Sandpaper “scratches” the work surface to reduce irregularities and high spots. If all the scratches are the same depth and width, the result looks smoother than before.  A few particles that are larger than the rest will scratch more deeply into the surface leaving marks. You might not even see these marks, but you can bet that staining the part will highlight every one of them.

Separating and sorting the abrasive particles when making sandpaper requires care, and that costs money. Cheap brands are likely to cause frustration and rework, so be caeful about the sanding supplies you choose.

But we all find ourselves under the gun and sometimes the only sandpaper available is an unknown quality. Here’s a tip: Run your sander lightly on a clean section of concrete floor or wall. This “pre-wear” will tend to knock off the high points first, leaving a more level surface for sanding. Try it, it works!